Last Day in Athens: Graffiti Galore

Sunday March 26 started out sunny and then got cloudy.  High about 22C.  It is our last day in Athens and we wanted to spend it outdoors, as temperatures are forecast to be cooler next week in Mykonos and Santorini where we are heading.  Alain went for his second run in Athens.  He did 5.1 km.

The first thing we noticed today was that the lilacs had all started to bloom.  Lots of beautiful purple.

Lilacs in bloom

We were going to check out a recommended coffee shop about a 30 minute walk away.  Luckily, twe checked out Google and found that it was closed on Sundays.  So instead, we headed off to Tailor Made, a coffee shop we had passed by near the busy Monastiraki neighbourhood.  En route, we saw a tree with some interesting "hat" lights.

Hat lamps in a tree

There were about four different coffee shops on the busy square and we grabbed some seats in the sun, just as they were being vacated.  Of course, after we ordered our coffee, we realized we were sitting in the adjacent coffee shop, called Throubi.  The coffee was still good, but as we didn't want a second cup, we will miss out on Tailor Made.

Athens is coffee heaven.  We have noticed that as the weather has warmed up, everyone in Greece drinks espresso Freddo-- which is espresso mixed in a blender with ice and served with additional ice.   The locals take sugar, which I try to avoid.  I will definitely have to try to make coffee this way in the summer.

Alain at Throubi--- the sign at the back says "Be the change you wish to see in the world."

Tailor Made- right next to us

We wandered a bit and decided to share a vegetable souflaki at a street food place called Tylixto.  Definitely hit the spot and the cucumbers and tomatoes were very fresh.

A quick bite outside at Tylixto

Our destination was an area of Athens we hadn't visited before.  Anafiotika is maze of white-washed homes along the northern slope of the Acropolis.  The homes were built by refugees from the Cycladic island of Anafi.  Lots of neat graffiti and small homes on the slope.  One street on the way up the hill was packed with cafes.

                                                           Through Adversity to the Stars!

Outside Sissifos-- great name

                                                     Lots of cafes as one heads up the hill

There were two or three small alleys full of wonderful, colourful graffiti- a photographer's dream.  It was perfect that Alain was wearing a colourful T-shirt.

 Incredible graffiti

More...

Alain blends in perfectly

                                                              Black and white graffiti

The colours were so vibrant.  It reminded us a bit of the graffiti in Buenos Aires.  Serious stuff!

Purple

The eyes have it...

In love..

                                                                         Two headed

                                                               Definitely graffiti as art in this 'hood

We found the houses of Anafiotika further up the hill from the graffiti alleys.  The houses were very close to each other with lots of planters in between.  A very unique neighbourhood, just behind the Acropolis.

A cat pointing to the Acropolis

                                                                 Very narrow laneways

Small houses with lots of plants

Very different than the rest of the housing in Athens--an island feel

                                                                          A church in the neighbourhood

View from on high

We headed down and came across a plaque indicating the building where the first University of the Independent Greek state was located from 1837-41.  It was in the former home of the architect Stamatios Kleanthis.

                                                    View of the building from around the corner

We headed down to the main path near the Acropolis where we had been last week.  Lots of vendors and even a woman braiding hair.

                                                                   Braiding hair 

We wandered to the residential area near the Acropolis and dropped in on Athena Design Workshop where Alain and I had bought T-shirts last week.  I bought a scarf with a Medusa pattern.  The designer is doing a series of scarves and T-shirts with women goddesses on them.  She was lovely.  It was one of the few stores out of the tourist area that was open on a Sunday.

                                              With the designer in her shop where she works

There are some lovely homes in this neighbourhood.

We walked back to the street near the Acropolis and a woman was doing acrobatics from a tree.  A crowd had gathered nearby.

                                                More lilacs on the street below the Acropolis

                                                                        Sunday entertainment

We continued our walk for another 20 minutes up to the Kolonaki area.  All the shops were closed, but the pedestrian street with a number of bakeries, restaurants and bars was packed and everything was open.   We bought a treat at a wonderful bakery.  A small jazz band was playing outside of Minnie the Moocher, which has been in operation since 1931.

                                                          Minnie the Moucher bar

We headed back to the apartment on the street with the President's residence and the Presidential Guards.

                                       On the march- the guards are always accompanied by a soldier

Hotel Chelsea, our neighbourhood cafe, was buzzy as ever.  We really lucked into staying in a great neighbourhood- not a tourist area, but walking distance from everything.  Near the National Gardens with a wonderful view of the Acropolis 24/7.

After a rest, we headed out for dinner at around 9:00 p.m.  Greeks tend to eat even later.  We went to nearby Taverna Karavitis, which has been in business since 1926.  It was recommended by our Culinary Backstreets guide.  Carolina told us to order the lamb chops.  Karavitis has all the trademarks of a old Athenian tavern, including enormous wine barrels on the walls.  One of the specialties are the lamb chops which are marinated with oregano, lemon juice, thyme and pepper and then grilled at a high temperature until they are well done.  We had one order to share.  They were very tasty.  With house wine, bread, a cucumber and tomato salad and a piece of semolina halva for dessert, our dinner came to 20 euros including tip, for the two of us!  As we ate, more families came in for their Sunday dinner.  

                                                                        One room with wine barrels

                                                      Main dining room that had filled up by the time we left

                                                                  Tomato and cucumber salad with olives

                                                                        Lamb chops with potatoes

                                                        Outside of the Tavern Karavitis 

Then it was back to the apartment to finish packing.  We have an early (7:30 a.m.) sailing to Mykonos.  We have really enjoyed our nine days in Athens.  Met and exceeded expectations!